Once in Charjou – stayed in the best hotel in town, which was an absolute dump. Peace Corp living there, but still atrocious. Dinner at Lebab was surprisingly delicious. White linen tablecloths and napkins. Service exceptional by a Ukrainian woman, Giselle, who had such a graceful manner. We started the meal with cucumbers, tomatoes and marinated mushrooms. Then we had a beef stew with potatoes and carrots. Then we had lamb, mushrooms and onions in a cheese soufflé. I had beer while Jim and Sergei (our fantastic Russian translator) drank vodka. We drank green tea afterwards.