30 August 2000 – I woke at 6:24 a.m. to the most glorious sunrise I’ve ever seen. Immediately I woke Jim. Through the open curtains we viewed a sky on fire – not with a red-hot blaze, but instead with a burnt-orange backdrop surrounding the lofty acacia umbrella trees and endless, honey-colored Serengeti plain.

Later in the day when we crossed from the Serengeti (Tanzania) into Masai Mara (Kenya), the Kenyan police suggested a US$50/person (US$200 total) to ‘help us enter their country’. I hit the roof. Jim played good cop and talked them down to US$100 total for four people. One of the two crooked Kenyan police officers kept saying, “I’m not demanding anything. You give what you want.” But we would have been there a week if we hadn’t succumbed to his suggested bribe.2