Khartoum: an industrial-feeling, non-sophisticated city of contrasts made up of ancient Omdurman, North Khartoum and Khartoum all divided by the White and Blue Nile. Stucco, crumbling buildings, minaret tops, tarred main streets and dirt secondary alleys, smoky souks, tea and coffee sellers on every corner, small shops and mammoth government with limited operating hours, non-working traffic lights with policemen in white uniforms directing fast-paced traffic, grown men in white Islamic robes, older women draped ankle to head in colorful fabrics and young women adorned in long skirts and sleeves with head scarves. Islam mandates the covering of women, yet the sun penetrates any skin open to the rays making the protective, shielding garments enormously sensible.